The Autumn Surf Thread

Discussion in 'Weather' started by nfip, Mar 3, 2017.

  1. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    It seems like the beach has that really 'deep' feeling to it and maybe lost a lot of its sand, perhaps from a big storm a while back and it just never recovered. That's the feeling/impression I get from "Newie" anyway.

    At least as a back up, they have the reef and I tell you what, "Crosswaves" on the right swell/tide/wind combo can be an excellent wave. I reckon @SAsurfa would love it but you do need really unique conditions to get it to work properly (E/NE swell, light SW wind, high tide combo tends to do the trick). I've been lucky enough to experience it once and it was really, really fun but a bit of a long, sharky paddle in and out!

    Definitely one of the last few good semi uncrowded spots on the Northern Beaches IMO (it's only really "Newie" locals that surf it) and Tommy Carroll was out there ripping the day I was out too :D
     
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  2. Gumbo

    Gumbo Dedicated Member
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    Off to Fiji in May(first week) for a wedding, only for a week but plan on getting at least a couple of days surfing in.
     
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  3. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    Had a surf - same mystery location well-situated for coffee ;) It was (very) small and weak. It really quite nice. I caught 17 waves in 1/2 hour - as you'd expect all pretty low speed but one ride managed to be a bit over 60m. See http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=557376&vId=72279

    I came in after a fair few bait fish were going berserk and there were some suspicious swirls about 50m away. I didn't see a fin or anything but I decided 1/2 hour was enough.

    Anyway it looked like this just before I paddled out (some set waves were bigger, but still only in the 1 foot range).

     
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  4. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
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    LOL love these secret spot surf reports Ted.
    Looks same down this way today too.
     
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  5. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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  6. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Looked like a nice mini mal style wave.

    I did see the my stretch & the Manly stretch yesterday and can report that it was very small and weak looking too.

    Still looked like a bit of fun to be had on the right equipment e.g. long and thick. Some nice long boarding going on along the Manly stretch.

    @SAsurfa I think I spied your nice bank that you've been scoring off towards the South Steyne end ;)
     
  7. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
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    The Mals are all out today.
     
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  8. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    FNMOC long range charts are now touching easter swell windows (current run ends Thu 13 Apr). Good zonal flow evident down south though no major systems below bite, showing potential though for an amplification. East coast looking a bit (read very) quiet. Standard disclaimers, super long way out, blah blah....
     
  9. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Not surprising - Remember my 2c post from last week @Belly ;)
     
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  10. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    I often find Autumn over the years, is either "absolutely pumping" or dead flat & dominated by stable High Pressure - nothing in between
     
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  11. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    I heard about the little shark on the radio this morning. Didn't notice any particular commotion about it yesterday, but the way those little bait fish were behaving (and the generally sharky weather) I would have been more surprised if there was _not_ a shark or two around somewhere nearby.

    I had a "failure to surf" this morning, very much too small and full anywhere on the beach. I walked the length of the beach for a look, hadn't been up the north end since before the big southerly swells a couple of weeks ago. There is a _lot_ of sand missing from the beach up near Barrenjoey and a lot of seaweed has been deposited on the beach and in the shorebreak up there - so much that I really don't see how you could get across it to paddle out right now, even though the water and banks up there look pretty ok.

    I would have gone back for my board and paddled out if (1) there was some path out through the seaweed and (2) someone else was going to paddle out, or at least on the beach (as you can imagine it was a bit manky with all that weed drying out and decomposing).



     
  12. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Well looks like my theory of a quiet April is well and truly out the window - all I can see for the next 2 weeks at least is swell, swell and more swell.....looks like potential for a brief reprieve this coming weekend but it won't go flat, going off the long range forecast......
     
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  13. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    I had a surf for an hour or so today (and I _may_ have surfed some of the preceding days too - I'll bet that surprises you all...). Was pretty good, particularly until the wind got around further to the SE, about 4' or maybe bigger on the sets and a fair bit of water moving around. More people than usual at Palm Beach for mid-week, and mostly unfamiliar faces, so I can only guess it was maxed-out or otherwise not working at various other places. Hopefully we will continue getting swell these next couple of weeks at least!

    Photo below is after I finished (with the onshore getting fairly strong) and a normal-sized set coming through - some sets were a foot or two bigger and randomly either giant close-outs or makeable.
     
    #263 Ted Harper, Apr 4, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2017
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  14. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Looks like a fun bank :)
     
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  15. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Pumping today!!! :( :( :(
     
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  16. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
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    Yep.
    Wind just swung around tho.
    Be smoking somewhere , just saw some drainers firing off in the middle of the beach.
    1 lucky punter on his / her own.
     
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  17. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Mid north is my go-to day dreaming place. Long right handers, plenty of other variety, warm water, less than a day's drive away, folks place available for a stop-over....
     
  18. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    ...and of course today happens to be the day I am having a day trip to Berridale and Jindabyne (sigh). Never mind, yesterday was pretty good anyway.
     
  19. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Got some mates at my favourite MNC point break region right now, said it's been pumping up there and lots of sore arms/shoulders
     
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  20. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Day trip?!!! That's a solid 10-12 hours of driving there and back in a day @Ted Harper !!!
     
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  21. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Salty @FourSquare04?
    I'm praying for it to turn on for Monday 24th, not that I'm a religious man. And then if that happens I'll need to prepare my business case for a day trip with the family from Port Stephens ;)
     
  22. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Would be thundering today!!!!
     
  23. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Nar, further north ;)
     
  24. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    Yeah - changing the gas cylinder and going to the NPWS office in Jindy to get new park passes. My parents just bought one of the new Imprezas and my dad offered me to drive it down and back - they are 80-ish so haven't really driven it much yet and wanted it to be given a drive. Couldn't argue ;)

    (side note: the car is really nice. I haven't driven a car with CVT transmission before but it is smooth and quiet and the CarPlay stuff works perfectly with my phone. It has adaptive cruise control too - slows down and speeds up with the car in front - which I haven't used before. Not sure on fuel economy yet but I think it uses a bit more than my manual Subaru XV for the same drive but not a big difference).

    Anyway, back to Sydney this afternoon and surfing tomorrow with any luck.
     
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  25. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
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    wind swung back to the west.
    there was a general down tools in town today I did observe :D
    just had couple of hours 4 or 5 foot . self and couple of mates.
    couple bigger bombs on the head , good for duck dive practice
    and also hold breath keep your shit together practice .
     
  26. Drewboy

    Drewboy Dedicated Member
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    Still onshore up our way
     
  27. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Still pumping up north, sounds like beachies more accessible today!!
     
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  28. Drewboy

    Drewboy Dedicated Member
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    Finally gone offshore.Some nice banks as well.
     
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  29. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
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    Cuppla no shows on-site this morning.
    No points in guessing why......
    Has dropped btw , prolly 3 or 4 foot.
    Wind just poking gently around to the NE which won't hurt a couple of options.
     
  30. Harper11

    Harper11 Part of the Furniture
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    Surf has been good here but is quite brown from all the water coming out of the tweed river
     
  31. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Can confirm this from the text report I received courtesy of my sources on the MNC currently north of Port Mac ;)
     
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  32. Fozzie Bear

    Fozzie Bear Well-Known Member

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    No Paul Gallen up at Greenhills/Wanda?
     
  33. W0nkey D0nkey

    W0nkey D0nkey Active Member

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    Water temp in Wollongong really warm, sweating in a spring suit. Very comfortable in boardies.
     
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  34. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    The mystery Northern Beaches location (not far from a coffee shop ;)) wasn't bad this morning. I had an hour or so right on low tide and got 10 pretty ok 3' or so waves. Takeoffs were pretty sucky, the set waves mostly ended in quite cosmic closeouts, and there was a bit more current running up the wave faces than ideal, but it was well worth a surf. Here's how it looked afterwards:

     
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  35. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Looks much better than a day in the office @Ted Harper

    Looked like it was pumping for the early this morning
     
  36. Drewboy

    Drewboy Dedicated Member
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    No the Cronulla boys train down Nth Cronulla way.
     
  37. Fozzie Bear

    Fozzie Bear Well-Known Member

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    lel...... there is a juvenile great white that has been terrorising the boys at Sandshoes and it has been nicknamed Paul Gallen.
     
  38. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
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    Gallen would be a bull shark no ?
     
  39. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    For some of us it _was_ a day in the office ;) Agreed completely though, the early would have been really really good, most likely at all sorts of places on the Northern Beaches.
     
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  40. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    I had literally just finished reading this thread and I got a notification on my Apple Watch from the Dorsal app for Sandshoes. When I opened the app here is what it says about Paul Gallen...

     
  41. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Just had a spare 10 to do some chart gazing. Wow for next Tue / Weds, a tasman low pettering out near NZ, a cyclone up around Fiji, and an ex tropical low meandering to the east of NZ towards the swell shadow.
    I know it was all in Ben's Wednesday's notes but it looks impressive on the charts all the same.
    Not certain how much will be left Easter Sun/Mon but there should be good options on the open beaches to kick start Easter at least!!
     
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  42. Drewboy

    Drewboy Dedicated Member
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    The boys down that end have been talking it up It keeps the crowds down.
     
  43. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
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    Somewhere on the ahhh mid north coast this morning.
    [​IMG]
     
  44. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Bit out of your territory eh @nfip ;)
     
  45. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    Anyone get in on the weekend?

    I got out Saturday morning for the tail end dregs of the pulse

    Still a few nice & clean 2-3ft sets coming through for the early session but that monster high really killed what could have been a very fun session

    Went for 1-1.5ft grovel yesterday as well, just had to be done on what was probably the last hot day we will see for a while

    How warm is the water right now though!!!

    Must be pushing around 24-25 here in Sydney, it's ridiculously warm
     
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  46. W0nkey D0nkey

    W0nkey D0nkey Active Member

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    My local was pumping saturday, 3-4ft left hand rip bank reeling off like a reverse snapper.
     
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  47. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

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    @Ted Harper how was Palmy on Saturday morning? I imagine would have been potentially quite good although perhaps also a bit 'fat' on that huge high tide?
     
  48. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
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    Frothing for the surf forecast from the experts later today. NSW looking good for Easter, Bells looking alright too....
     
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  49. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa Dedicated Member

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    Back from AK, jeez it's cold this morning in Sydney. Will give a run down in the coming days, epic place!
     
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  50. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
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    yes ;). Saturday morning http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=557376&vId=74301 and yesterday morning
    http://surf.traceup.com/stats/u?uId=557376&vId=74544

    Bend in the road at Palm Beach both mornings as you can see from the GPS stats links.

    Saturday was the better day for me - rather bigger and the good sets came through more often, but (like last Saturday and I'm not sure if the same guys) a group of about a dozen guys - who seemed to know each other but none of us knew - all in the water from really really early (I mean seemingly already well into their session at 6:15am when we got there) who all surfed well but had a far higher level of competitive drive than some of our group. Ducking and weaving inside, late takeoffs and being philosophical about drop ins were helpful skills and if you didn't have them it would have been a very frustrating session! My usual group mostly scattered to less-good banks up and down the beach to get more waves and a couple that did stay out with me didn't end up with many :(

    Yesterday wasn't nearly as good - smaller, much more north in the swell but not in a helpful way, more backwash on the high tide - but not many in the water. I had fun but - despite the lower level of competitiveness needed to get a good haul of waves vs Saturday - it wasn't as satisfying a session for me but better for the people who were out-competed on Saturday.

    The water is still very warm indeed isn't it. My L-plater son who comes with me for some earlies has a large metal plate in his head (courtesy of brain surgery a couple of years ago after a skateboarding accident) and finds the cold winds make it hurt even when the water is warm - he was pretty happy with the conditions yesterday though. I promised him I'd take him to the Rip Curl shop at Narrabeen to buy him a hood, and with the cold offshore today I suspect he will want it sooner rather than later. Does anyone have one of these? How are they to surf in?