The Autumn Surf Thread

Discussion in 'Weather' started by nfip, Mar 3, 2017.

  1. POW_hungry

    POW_hungry Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    May 28, 2000
    Messages:
    9,379
    Likes Received:
    3,629
    Interestingly BOM has a large & powerful surf warning issued tonight... Over-precautionary after last weekend's deaths perhaps?

    I personally haven't seen that sort of warning in a BOM forecasted; 2m swell...
     
  2. SAsurfa

    SAsurfa Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Messages:
    892
    Likes Received:
    834
    I think it's fair enough, Sydney and Port Botany buoys are up around 4m out of the south.
     
    POW_hungry likes this.
  3. POW_hungry

    POW_hungry Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    May 28, 2000
    Messages:
    9,379
    Likes Received:
    3,629
    Sounds like they've under-cooked their own forecast then, no?
     
  4. POW_hungry

    POW_hungry Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    May 28, 2000
    Messages:
    9,379
    Likes Received:
    3,629
    I've just seen 3-4m seas in their forecast, excuse me. Fair call then.
     
    SAsurfa likes this.
  5. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    Thoroughly horrible at Palm Beach. Out of the wind down at Kiddies' Corner is full of seaweed - to the extent that I don't think I could paddle through it at all - and the rest of the beach is a Giant Washing Machine Of Doom.

    I will give it 10 or 15 minutes to inspire me before I give up and go home but right now it isn't looking like I will get a surf this morning.



    Edit/update: I found a couple of friends sitting in their cars and we convinced each other to paddle out up the beach a bit. There were some good waves - when the variable onshore-offshore wind and the odd doubling-up swell both co-operated - but some shockers and some big wash-through sets too. Got 5 waves (only) and came in after someone rode over me when I was caught inside and paddling back out (no damage, just an unnecessary thing). Tomorrow is another day :)
     
    #205 Ted Harper, Mar 18, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2017
    FourSquare04 and SAsurfa like this.
  6. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    Looks pretty miserable today crew.

    Best option right now is to watch Snapper - it's pumping!!!
     
    Ted Harper likes this.
  7. parkmonkey

    parkmonkey Old And Crusty
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    Messages:
    30,785
    Likes Received:
    7,579
    Surf looked like was pumping at tallows on my ride into work this morning
     
    Drewboy likes this.
  8. Drewboy

    Drewboy Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    537
    Can't wait to get this baby in the water.6x2 38 litres.
     
    Belly and parkmonkey like this.
  9. Fozzie Bear

    Fozzie Bear Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2014
    Messages:
    471
    Likes Received:
    341
    Jackson?
     
  10. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    This morning may actually be too bad to surf at Palm Beach - more seaweed, less distinct swell, more onshore wind... The Giant Washing Machine Of Doom effect is quite a bit greater than yesterday. The one bank that was working yesterday still has a wave today BUT has so much seaweed floating that it looks like a brown waterlogged paddock.



    Maybe someone will paddle out but I can't see it being me.
     
    #210 Ted Harper, Mar 19, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
  11. Drewboy

    Drewboy Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    537
    Yep Jims still shaping
     
  12. Fozzie Bear

    Fozzie Bear Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2014
    Messages:
    471
    Likes Received:
    341
    Time for a new board :thumbs:
     
    Drewboy likes this.
  13. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2003
    Messages:
    5,475
    Likes Received:
    870
    Interesting tail ;)
     
  14. PiniPowPow

    PiniPowPow Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Silver

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2010
    Messages:
    1,569
    Likes Received:
    621
    Pretty wild over the weekend. Snuck out the point this morning and got a couple bouncing around between the clean up sets. Also, finally paid my membership so can much more easily upload photos!

     
    Belly, Drewboy, POW_hungry and 2 others like this.
  15. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    That looks foul! @Ted Harper
     
  16. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    Plenty of weed around here too.
    In the water that is.:D
     
    Ted Harper likes this.
  17. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    It was hideous. The photo doesn't show just how much seaweed there was or how completely rubbish the waves were. After taking the photo and posting to the forum, I drove up to The Boathouse for a coffee (2108 Espresso doesn't open until about 8am and I wasn't hanging around that long), drank it and came back down to the south end for a last look. One guy had actually paddled out by then, right where I had photographed. I saw him get one big messy brown close out then battle his way back out for the next 5 minutes through the churning giant wind chop and jungle-like seaweed and decided I _definitely_ wasn't surfing then drove home.
     
    FourSquare04 likes this.
  18. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    This got missed yesterday.
    Big O !
    Think we're all onto it here.
    Watched the final .... I had tears.
    One of the great all time life / sport / Aussie stories.
    Absolute Gold.
    Go you far king good thing.

     
    Belly, Zimboo, FourSquare04 and 3 others like this.
  19. POW_hungry

    POW_hungry Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    May 28, 2000
    Messages:
    9,379
    Likes Received:
    3,629
    Hope he takes the title - it's a long road but his backhand is as deadly as his late-drops at pipe/cloudy/tahiti.
    Couldn't happen to a more deservant, awesome human.
     
    FourSquare04 and nfip like this.
  20. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    All good things come from the South ! ;)LOL
     
  21. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    Watched the Cloudy final he won.
    2 ten pointers where as good as it gets.
    I dont watch much WCT at all , cant stand the Brazo and flapping crap.
    (respect the abilities in the air etc / jelly perhaps / getting olde yes dammit)
    Old skool rail to rail boy here.
    I've seen Owey win Cloudbreak,
    Russell win the Cape ,
    now Owen again...
    just fate or whatever.
     
    #221 nfip, Mar 20, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 20, 2017
  22. POW_hungry

    POW_hungry Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    May 28, 2000
    Messages:
    9,379
    Likes Received:
    3,629
    Culburra, Aussie Pipe, Dully, Depot - it's a worldclass playground if you know when and where to look. Breeding ground for charging legends in all conditions. You have to be a well rounded surfer to live on the sou-coast IMO.
     
    FourSquare04, W0nkey D0nkey and nfip like this.
  23. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    The kids have some pretty cool parents to lay the platform.
    edit : but they are such good kids.
    Polite . humble , respectfull.
    If not the crew ( i.e parents mates ) would kick their grommie arse all the way home !
     
    POW_hungry likes this.
  24. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    Well that was a pretty disappointing swell event for the Sydney region. Plagued by onshore winds it was a waste of size from a good direction. Oh well, at least we can't say that Autumn has disappointed so far because it sure has not and we are only 3 weeks in.

    My 2c:
    One thing I have noticed over the years though is it's rare to have a good March followed by a good April so don't be surprised if we go back to dominant & stable High Pressure for several weeks next month.....hope I'm wrong :)
     
    #224 FourSquare04, Mar 21, 2017
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2017
  25. Stephen James Allen

    Stephen James Allen Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2015
    Messages:
    296
    Likes Received:
    132
    No, I hope that they are caught. Firstly the size of the surf doesn't warrant motorised assistance; second, they are noisey and smelly, third they are a hazard to life. Tis irresponsible to be riding these machines at a local beach break.
     
    Drewboy likes this.
  26. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    I don't disagree at all.
    Not unusual too see these machines in the headlines for all the wrong reasons.
    That poor kid in Vietnam springs to mind......
    Did you read my other Post #154 ?
     
  27. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    Looks like things have gone a touch quiet after a busy few weeks on the swell front

    @SAsurfa how do we get jobs at SN?!! Do they pay well or are they more of a 'just enough to pay the bills' lifestyle type job?
     
  28. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2003
    Messages:
    5,475
    Likes Received:
    870
    Yeah not seeing anything significant for the east coast on the long range charts.
     
  29. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    few waves around today.
    bit of a SW ish happening if can find a bank.
    Golfy be 3 foot or so but very short interval by the quick look i had driving past.
    Relatively busy tho as a few of the boys been rained off again ,many jobs to wet to get onto even if its not falling.
     
    FourSquare04 likes this.
  30. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    I had a surf this morning at South Palm Beach - the recently-consistent bank directly in front of the coffee shop is still holding on. It was only a foot or two with a bit of seaweed but I got 21 pretty ok waves in an hour so well worthwhile getting wet.

     
    FourSquare04, parkmonkey and Drewboy like this.
  31. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    That looks like good fun there @Ted Harper

    Looks like Vicco are in for some solid Groundswell early next week - could be some classic Bells happening:

    [​IMG]
     
  32. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    Can't believe there's someone dropping in with what looks like only 2 guys out @Ted Harper
     
  33. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    Pumping down here today.
    Kammas looks nice, not big but breaking pretty true.
    Be plenty of action up and down the coast for sure.
     
    Drewboy and FourSquare04 like this.
  34. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
  35. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    Yeah, funny to catch some SUP+mal drop-in action when all I wanted to do was snap a wave to send to my kids (and upload here) after I finished.

    There was unfortunately a bit of that when I was in the water too, which was a bit nuts given there weren't a lot of people in the water and really there were more than enough waves like the one in that photo to go around.

    I tend to sit inside and grab what people miss or chicken out of the takeoffs for, which usually yields you a good haul of waves at Palm Beach - good late takeoff practice too. Generally avoids getting dropped in on, but at the risk of becoming collateral damage when someone drops in (and sends the other guy out of the pocket) or falls off outside of you. Yesterday as well as me there were a couple of mums surfing together (pretty good, on short boards also - there's a group of them with little kids who surf together mid-week and take turns surfing vs minding all the kids) Using that strategy and we all managed to get our fill of waves with no dropping-in necessary :)

    Sidenote: It looks at this stage like it might actually _not_ be raining tomorrow morning so my wife might get to do 7am yoga at Bend-in-the-Road for only the second time in about the last 6 weeks. Also talking to the owner of the coffee shop yesterday - he would be _very_ happy to have a few non-rainy weekends before the weather and water cool down after the past few weeks of consistent rain and yuck.
     
  36. Fozzie Bear

    Fozzie Bear Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2014
    Messages:
    471
    Likes Received:
    341
    nfip likes this.
  37. Drewboy

    Drewboy Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Messages:
    275
    Likes Received:
    537
    Good swell around our way today but that dreaded onshore hit around 7.30am.The early tomorrow is looking promising.
     
    Ted Harper likes this.
  38. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2003
    Messages:
    5,475
    Likes Received:
    870
    Am I reading this right Ted - that's you dropping in on a mal that's way to deep in the first place!? - Fair play IMO :)
     
    FourSquare04 likes this.
  39. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    No, I wa already finished and at the back of my car drying off and thought I'd better take a photo to gloat to my kids. From memory the guy way too far inside was on a SUP, and getting dropped in on by a mal.

    I'll definitely go if someone isn't going to make it, but I am wary of doing so when it is a mal or particularly a SUP because they are so big and heavy and hit you so hard if you misjudge the distance or they fall or otherwise happen to fire their massive craft at you. There's only one winner when that happens and it's not the guy on the shortboard with the ultra light glass job...
     
  40. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    Surfed this morning - 3-4' on the sets, pretty clean but a bit of backwash around the turn of the tide. I got 16 waves in an hour.

    There were a remarkable number of people in the water, even from 6:45 when I paddled out, so either lots of other places weren't working, or more people than I thought read this thread and saw my photo and report from the other day.

    So to lessen the risk of even more people tomorrow morning, let's just say today I surfed "at a mystery location in front of a good coffee shop" (which in truth would probably describe most places I surf most of the time).

     
    FourSquare04 and parkmonkey like this.
  41. Belly

    Belly Addicted Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2003
    Messages:
    5,475
    Likes Received:
    870
    Yeah I got hit in the jaw by a mal a few weeks back. Was gunning down the line on a bigger one, mal was paddling out, I went the low road and thought I was clear, then the mal must have got picked up by the lip and before I know it, a mal to the chops. Stayed on my board though :)

    I surf a few softer waves where mal frequent and I never sit inside of them for that reason, a bigger set comes and they are basically loose flying dangerous objects as they can't duckdive.
     
    Ted Harper likes this.
  42. parkmonkey

    parkmonkey Old And Crusty
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    May 20, 2005
    Messages:
    30,785
    Likes Received:
    7,579
    Got some fun ones at Broken yesterday, only small but sweet, getting some confidence back
     
    Drewboy and Ted Harper like this.
  43. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    Another not bad surf this morning, maybe a foot smaller than yesterday but a nice day at Palm Beach (unusually for the day the markets are on) and fewer people in the water. Seemed to be ok waves all up and down the beach and I am guessing plenty of other beaches were delivering ok conditions too and spreading the crowds out.

    Enjoyed my session and got an update from my friends who went to the Surfing World camp at Treachery last weekend. As expected the surf was massive and they had a LOT of rain but getting there early and with a bit of luck too they got a good camping site this year and they had a great time and already planning to go again next year.
     
  44. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    @Ted Harper how are the 'banks' holding up along the Palmy stretch after all the recent swell activity?
     
  45. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    Another weekend where I was unable to get into the water - grrrrrr

    Only managed a quick bodybash on sunset last night which was rather enjoyable - how warm is the water right now! Must be at least 23 maybe pushing 24 ish. Deep gutters along my stretch from all the recent swell activity with banks now established further out.

    There were some nice up to head high albeit fat waves coming through but jeez, talk about crowded for what was on offer.
     
    Ted Harper likes this.
  46. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    Up the length of the beach they are better than some of us had reasonably hoped. The bigger swells of 1-2 weeks ago even seem to have bulldozed out some channels deeper than they were before, so I am hoping that means it will take longer again before they break down into nothingness and the period through Easter (with its several weeks of school holidays and hence more people to share with) will have lots of good bank options available.

    I was chatting to a nice chap - who has been driving up from Newport to surf at Palm semi-regularly of late - at the back of my car after yesterday morning's session in fact and we agreed how much better the last 12 months has been at Palm Beach vs the previous 18 months or so (where long-term readers of these surf threads will remember my ongoing laments of month after month of straight-handers and backwash everywhere at Palm).

    I didn't get a surf in today (I have instead been finishing some remedial gardening after the epic rainfall and other weather oddities of the last month or so) but I am hopeful for tomorrow or maybe Wednesday for a short session at least. The water is really really warm (still more than happy - even on the earlies - wearing boardies and that 1mm long-arm vest I bought last year and am getting _so_ much use out of, despite my wife's concern about it having one "yum yum yellow" arm when I wear it for super-earlies or murky days).
     
    FourSquare04 likes this.
  47. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    If you see that Newport bloke again ask him what his thoughts are on the state of Newport Beach itself. Apart from 'the peak' in the northern corner, that beach seems to be plagued by poor banks and while it's been some time since I've been up that way it just never seems to have decent waves apart from around 'the peak' or the reef options in the far southern corner.....
     
  48. nfip

    nfip Part of the Furniture
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2006
    Messages:
    10,115
    Likes Received:
    6,435
    Spent the whole weekend on the water training IRB crew.
    Phuck I'm sore as shit. Wrists , forearms , elbows , bisceps are gorn ......
    Was 4 - 6 foot and I was teaching them how to in essence "duck dive " or if you lucky pop over the white water in an IRB.
    Involved in putting myself in the least desirable situations , repeatedly with each kid / adult both days morning and arvo sesh.
    In the arvos as the tide dropped I found myself confronting top to bottom , shallow sand and weed to contend.
    Where some genuine "oh shit " moments but take home lesson again is once you make a decision don't change your mind.
    We survived , no roll overs , no majory injury , some blood which I told them at commencement will happen.
    Good fun.
    How come surf is always at it's best when you got other shit to do ......
     
    FourSquare04 likes this.
  49. FourSquare04

    FourSquare04 Dedicated Member

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2001
    Messages:
    4,318
    Likes Received:
    1,205
    Always the way @nfip

    I have to be on call for work which I hate with a passion now and it's almost always good surf when I'm on call (this past weekend for example).
     
    nfip likes this.
  50. Ted Harper

    Ted Harper Dedicated Member
    Season Pass Gold

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2000
    Messages:
    956
    Likes Received:
    934
    I used to surf at Newport a fair bit about 30 years ago, but only very rarely in recent years. I do sit near the surf club semi-regularly eating a burger from the (excellent) chicken shop and watching the waves, and of course always have a glance when driving past. What you say is right and FWIW in my experience has been the consistent state there for a long time. I don't ever remember having a surf in the area in front of the surf club - only ever the Peak, less often 100m over to the left at the headland on the Bilgola side, and when it is working and not too crowded the excellent right-handers out from the swimming pool at the other (reef) end of the beach.

    I know quite a few people who live at Newport but surf at Palm Beach - generally ladies around my age, older short board riders, and also mal riders - they're all pretty good and keen surfers but having realistically just a single take-off spot at each of those locations at Newport (and often as not only one of them is working at all) it can often be just too "competitive" out there to be fun, and you don't have the option that most of the other northern beaches do where you can just paddle up or down the beach to the next peak to get at least reasonable waves (maybe not quite as good as at the ideal spot) but without the crowd if you aren't in the mood to mix it with the hotshots and those who are really on a mission to make sure they get everything.

    (sidenote: I am still planning on a surf a bit later, but fell into the trap of updating the software on my iPhone and now my Apple Watch this morning and my watch is still saying it is another hour before it is done... Trying not to lose the froth as I can feel the southerly picking up and likely the conditions getting worse while I watch the little status bar creeping far-to-slowly across.)